Would this be considered a deep cycle battery? i am only running 600 rms subs and a alpine 1000 wrms..with gain cut down ofcourse...My lights dim. Would this battery be enough or will i have to upgrade the alt too?
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/5057520/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
some times the primary battery is in poor health and will suck the amps that should run the system and try to charge a battery that can not be charged.
da12b is right, do the big 3 wire upgrade if you have not done so.
if your battery is a few years old you might want to try a new yellow top battery, one bad cell will keep the lights dimming.
this looks like a cap battery, 8 amp hour vs. a 90 or 120 amp hour so listening with out the car running will give you little listening time.
i like to monitor my voltage with a multimeter and use a battery charger, short trips driving may keep a battery undercharged and if you start cranking the system and use accessories like headlights a.c. or the heater from the second you start the car till you get to your destination may insure the battery is only charged to 1/2 or 3/4 of a full charge.
high output alternators can be expensive and some claim 150amps for say 180.00 will likely only give the amps at higher rpms but at idle give little or nothing so while you are sitting at the 4 minute stoplight with the system cranking you are using more amps then the battery is receiving.
that looks like a good product but system design is key, just remember the primary battery is the first load in the car so upgrading to a fresh optima battery might be best.
optimas have less internal resistance then regular batteries and can get a nice top charge up to 13.3v. vs. 12.8.
shop around for optimas too some retailers can cost an extra 40.00 but freshness is important, Sam's club carries optima at a good price but may be months older.
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